
April 30, 2004 News Releases
Released 4/28/04 and 4/29/04
UTAH STATE NEWS RELEASES FOR 4-29-04
ASK A SPECIALIST:
TOMATO QUESTIONS ANSWERED
Spring is here, and it's time to think tomatoes. Consider
the following information to get the best possible crop.
• Tomatoes are categorized by maturity class (early,
mid-season or late), fruit size (cherry, pear, plum or large),
plant size (determinate, semi-determinate or indeterminate),
fruit color (red, pink, yellow, orange), or use (fresh, process
or dual use). When selecting varieties, consider the growing
environment, primary use and available growing space. Most garden
centers and nurseries carry varieties that have been proven
to grow well and produce high quality, flavorful fruits for
local conditions.
• Tomatoes can be grown from seeds or transplants. Transplants
should have about five to seven mature leaves and a well-developed
root system. Transplants mature about four weeks before seeded
tomatoes and are recommended for most growing areas of Utah.
• Tomatoes prefer a sunny location and fertile, well-drained
soils. Incorporate plenty of organic matter and a complete fertilizer
into the area before planting. Once planted, avoid heavy fertilization,
which encourages excessive foliage growth and delays fruit maturity.
Side dress with nitrogen (34-0-0) using one tablespoon per plant
at four and eight weeks after transplanting.
• Plant tomato seeds directly in the garden 10-14 days
before the last frost date. Most gardeners transplant tomatoes
through black plastic for earlier maturity. Use row covers or
hot caps to protect the plants when transplanting before the
frost-free period. Plant tomatoes two feet apart in the row
with rows spaced two to three feet apart.
• Plant three to four tomato plants per person for fresh
use and an additional five to 10 plants for juicing, canning
or freezing. Expect 100 lbs. of fruit per 100 feet of row.
• Irrigation should be deep and infrequent. Apply one
to two inches of water per week. Use drip irrigation if possible.
Mulch placed around the plant will conserve soil moisture and
reduce weed growth. Do not apply organic mulches until soils
have warmed to 75 F. Irrigate so that moisture goes deep into
the soil. Irregular watering (over or under) can cause blossom-end
rot, a dark leathery spot on the bottom of the fruit.
• Use wooden stakes or wire cages to support the plants
and keep ripening fruits off the ground. Stakes should be driven
18 inches into the soil, three to four inches from the stem.
Indeterminate varieties require more support and vine pruning
to keep plant size manageable. Continue to tie up plants as
they grow.
• Control insects and diseases throughout the year. Common
problems are tomato horn worm, aphids and fusarium and verticilium
wilt. Consult your local county Extension office if plant problems
occur.
• Tomatoes require 25-35 days to mature from flowering,
depending on the temperature and variety. For the best flavor
and quality, pick fruits when they are fully colored but firm,
and pick as they ripen. At the end of the season, harvest all
fruits that are mature green or colored slightly. Store at 55
F and use as they ripen. Ripe tomatoes will store for one to
two weeks if held at 50-55 F. Fruits are subject to chilling
injury, so do not store them for more than a few days in the
refrigerator.
The following are answers to recent tomato questions.
Q: What causes the flowers to drop off my tomato plants?
A: During unfavorable weather (night temperatures lower than
55 F, or day temperatures above 95 F), tomatoes do not set and
flowers abort. The problem usually disappears as the weather
improves.
Q: What can I do to prevent my tomatoes from cracking?
A: Some varieties are more prone to cracking than others. Many
of the newer hybrid varieties are quite resistant. Severe root
or vine pruning increases cracking. Keep soil moisture uniform
as the tomatoes develop and plant resistant varieties to minimize
this problem.
Q: I sometimes see small, cloudy white spots just under the
skin of my tomatoes. What causes this?
A: These spots on green or ripe fruits are caused by the feeding
of stink bugs.
Q: Why are the new leaves on my tomato pointed, cupped, twisted
and irregular in shape?
A: It is likely that your tomatoes have been injured by 2,4-D
or a similar growth regulator weed killer. Never use the same
sprayer in your vegetable garden that you use for weed control
in your lawn. Use caution when applying lawn care chemicals
near vegetables or fruit plantings. If applying grass clippings
to the garden, make sure the herbicides used are safe for food
plants. Consult with your lawn care professional to ensure the
chemicals applied to your lawn will not affect your edible garden
plants.
Visit http://extension.usu.edu/cooperative/aska/
to see other Ask A Specialist columns.
Direct column topics to Julene Reese,
Utah State University Extension, Logan, UT 84322-0500, 435-760-9302;
julener@ext.usu.edu
April 29,2004
ASK A SPECIALIST (A weekly question/answer column)
Answer by: Dan Drost, Utah State University Extension Vegetable
Specialist
UTAH STATE NEWS RELEASES FOR 4-28-04
UTAH STATE STUDENTS
WIN BRIDGE BUILDING COMPETITION
LOGAN — A team of students from the Civil and Environmental
Engineering Department at Utah State University placed first
in the regional steel bridge building competition held in Ft.
Collins, Colorado.
The self-selected design team members are senior-level engineering
students at Utah State. The students are also members of the
Utah State student chapter of the American Society of Civil
Engineers.
This year’s team members include Spencer Tressler, Jake
Sharp, Mark Wilson, Dan Luke, Tyler Mertlich, Lindsey Jennings,
Ben Seaman and Greg Jolley. Faculty advisors for the bridge
project are Paul Barr and Marvin Halling.
Utah State won awards for construction speed, efficiency and
economy, and first place for its bridge design at the regional
competition.
“This is a great group of students,” said Halling.
“We expect them to do well at the national competition.”
The Utah State teams have placed first in the regional competition
six out of the past 10 years but have yet to claim the crown
for the best bridge design in the nation. Utah State placed
fourth at a previous national competition; the team hopes to
better that mark this year.
The regional competition included schools from the Intermountain
West region including Utah State, University of Utah, Brigham
Young University, University of Colorado at Boulder, Colorado
State University, Colorado School of Mines, U.S. Air Force Academy,
Metro State University (Denver), South Dakota Tech, University
of New Mexico and New Mexico State University.
The first place award of $1,000 will be used toward expenses
for the national competition in Golden, Colo., to be held May
28 and 29.
April, 28, 2004
Writer: Matt Cardis, macardis@cc.usu.edu, (435) 797-1350
Contact: Marvin Halling, halling@cc.usu.edu, (435) 797-3179
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